Mt. Everest

A Tribute to my Dad                                                                                               May 23,2016

 

My dad summited Mt Everest Monday, May 23, 2016 at 5:25am (Sunday evening in the US).  He is safe at basecamp. His team was one of the last teams to summit. Many people have already left and because of the timing of things he and his team will helicopter out to Kathmandu tonight. Thanks to all of you who have supported my dad!

The following is my attempt to give background to his journey and sum up what we all just witnessed:

The summit of Mt Everest:  The accomplishment of a journey that started long ago when my dad was young climbing his first mountain with his dad. That mountain was Hayden’s peak in Utah’s Uinta Mountains. It was also the same mountain my dad took me to for my first climb when I was about eight years old. When my son was born in 2006, we named him Ty Everest after my dad who actually at that point hadn’t planned on climbing Mt Everest. We chose the name because he loved the mountains, and I wanted to come up with a name that exemplified the kind of man my dad is. Everest was the only name that seemed to fit perfectly.

My dad has climbed many mountains, including Europe’s highest Mt Blanc, Africa’s highest Kilimanjaro, Switzerland’s Matterhorn and the dangerous Eiger, Mt Rainier, and many more adventures that would be difficult to name. I can only imagine what he is thinking right now. It must be a very emotional time for him.

His journey to Everest began in 2012 when my mom and dad went to basecamp for the first time. They only planned on doing the basecamp trek. My mom told us that when they were in Kathmandu, my dad went into a climbing store that sold all the proper equipment for big mountain climbing. My dad then asked their guide if he could take someone’s spot and permit to climb the mountain if they dropped out. He was told the permits have to be in the name of the individual and it is a long process to obtain one. Then in 2015 after plans fell through to climb Denali, he booked his trip to Everest. 2015 saw the biggest disaster in Everest history when a 7.8 magnitude earthquake hit, killing 19 people on Everest and over 8,000 in Kathmandu. He was rescued above the Icefall at Camp 1, via helicopter, that year. That brings us to this year where I’ve never heard my dad sound so mentally and physically tested. Weather became an issue, and his summit attempt was threatened when he came down with bronchitis. Still not feeling 100 percent his team was sent up for their first attempt at the summit, then turned back after their attempt failed due to a bad storm that ended up being a contributing reason why some other teams had major issues with frostbite and other serious problems. When he got back to Camp 2, he told my mom he had nothing left and didn’t think he would be able to continue. Knowing my dad as well as I do I can tell you I’ve never heard him sound so mentally and physically broken. My mom was a major help in encouraging him to keep trying if he had it in him to do so. She said she knew it was his dream and wanted to do everything she could to help him. He did push on and on May 23rd his dream became reality!

Before he left for Nepal we had a family going-away party. He stood up to thank us all, and he said what he was about to do was a selfish thing, but thanked us for supporting his dream and told us that he would be there every step of the way to support our dreams as well. I’ve thought a lot about those words. I don’t feel what he was doing was selfish. It is a legacy that has already inspired many of us to reach higher and to be better. He has always been there every moment supporting not only me but everyone in our family. So it is fitting that he holds a flag with a picture of our family at the top of the world, because we all know and feel that we are his world. Dad we love you.

You’re our world too!

Don

Before I share some of my thoughts of the summit day events, I want to thank Judy for all the updates. I just finished reading them and they accurately reflect my experience. The sat phone is a wonderful invention, but the satellites were not always directly overhead and connections were not always great. Good enough though, because I’m pleased with the outcome.

My Sherpa, Pk, had my point-and-shoot camera and took some great pictures, including the one above. He also used a borrowed Go Pro and promised to email videos later.

Of course, I cried as I crossed the beautiful Cornice Traverse between the South Summit and the summit itself, realizing I was about to accomplish my dream!  The other climbers I’ve talked with since said they did the same.  Confident in the fixed line and my safety attachment, I wasn’t terrified of the 7,000- to 8,000-foot drop on either side of the traverse. Instead, I was caught up in the beauty of the cornices and the backdrop of the almost windless blue sky and sunrise. A full moon added the perfect exclamation point!

I had drawn on the thoughts and prayers and energy of family, friends, and acquaintances to help me up an unrelentingly steep mountain to the point where I could finally enjoy the beauty and breathe it in deeply.

I treasured the moment, though I knew it wouldn’t last long and would soon be a flicker in my memory – only captured by a few photos.

I had rehearsed a few things I would do as I summited. I kept the family flag in an outside pocket of my pack where Pk could easily reach it. That was the first thing we did. I got the picture. I had to have that picture!  I carried it with me constantly for two months.  My family was never far from my mind.

Next, I pulled a warm sat phone from a chest pocket of my summit suit and made the call I’d been dreaming of for weeks. I called Judy from the Top of the World!  It was hard to get the phone near my ear with all the paraphernalia on my head and even harder to speak through the oxygen mask. I tried to pull it away from my face a bit but didn’t dare take it off. I knew Judy would have family around because it was Sunday evening dinner time and I could hear them in the background cheering my effort. “I’m at the Top of the World,” I said over and over.  I said, “I love you all,” over and over. Knowing that getting down is the most dangerous part, I told them I needed to get down safely now and that I would call to confirm it when I got back down to the South Col, 3,000 feet below.

Pk was extremely impressed I made the call. I think he was suddenly proud to claim me. He called me “grandfather.”  I think the Sherpa have to have a ton of patience with us!  I doubt seriously whether I could have done it without him. He cleared my mask intake valve, which kept freezing, with his knife many times on the way up, and set up my rappel in key places all the way back to Camp 2 when I had no energy left.

Finally, before leaving the summit, I stood with my head several feet above the highest point on earth, and let out a triumphant yell!  I let go of all the emotions, both positive and negative, of the past two months, culminating in this beautiful moment.  I let them all go into the rarefied thin air and felt a profound feeling of accomplishment.

I returned safely through the Icefall one last time the next day. Pk and I arrived at Crampon Point absolutely exhausted – I, more than he, of course!  One of the porters from camp happened to meet us there with a chilled Coca Cola.  Unbelievable!!!!  It was exactly what I needed to make it the final 20 minutes to EBC.

I had intended to trek back to Lukla. It’s late spring in the lower villages and absolutely beautiful, and a great time to decompress and reflect. But, the remaining climbers had decided to helicopter directly to Kathmandu. They were looking for one more person to fill a seat and to bring the overall cost down, so I reluctantly consented.

So, here I am, at the Yak and Yeti hotel in Kathmandu. The gardens are beautiful and the air is thick with oxygen. I’m waiting for my flight home on the 30th, but hoping my travel agent will find something sooner. I still have the Khumbu Cough, and am 25 pounds lighter, but life is good.  I can’t wait to be reunited with family and friends!

Ok, I guess I need to do one more update before Bart takes over!  I’m hearing that people are wondering if he got to EBC safely, yes he did.  He’s lost some weight, as expected, and has a bit of frostbite on his cheek, but otherwise he’s in good shape. He really wanted to trek  back down to Lukla, which would take three days, but as it turns out, there wasn’t anyone else that wanted to, so he’ll take the helicopter out with those who remain. What’s another $1,000 at this point. He will leave for Kathmandu tonight, weather permitting.

Bart: The euphoria of summiting continued to aid the extreme exhaustion of getting back to EBC.  After a sub-par sleep at Camp 2, in a tent with John – the one who had turned back, I packed all the extra stuff and headed down.  I guess John had accepted his fate because he didn’t seem as disappointed as I thought he’d be. My pack was extra heavy at about 50 pounds, and I was feeling every ounce.  Pk took my sleeping bag and pad which I didn’t have room for.  It took about twice as long as it had before to get to Crampon Point at EBC, but I was relieved to finally be through the Icefall safely one last time.  We were met there by one of the porters with a cold refreshing Coca Cola!  I couldn’t believe it!  I had spent the past 30 minutes struggling through the boulder field at the bottom of the Icefall, beyond tired.  It enabled me to walk the last 20 minutes to my tent.  I unloaded my pack and took all my sweaty down clothing off and finally laid down to rest in my homey little tent.  I had gear strewn everywhere both inside and out.  After a while I struggled over to the dining tent for lunch.

Some of the Hybrid Team were just leaving to trek out.  I had hoped they would wait a day so I could go with them, especially when I found out they were the only ones doing it.  The others were taking a helicopter to Kathmandu.  Chris had asked me before and asked me again at lunch if I wanted to join them and share the $5,000 cost.  I didn’t really want to trek out alone so I gave in.  By the time I decided to go I had less than an hour to get ready!  Fortunately, Pk came over to help me and we stuffed my duffels as fast as we could.  I tipped him $1,500, grateful for our successful summit, and gave him my altitude watch and Luminoodle, plus the solar panel to charge it.  I got back to the dining tent at 1:00 pm, just in time for our flight.  However, the clouds rolled in and they never left so we were forced to stay another night.  I ate red licorice, Jelly Bellies, and cashews all afternoon waiting for the weather to change.  After the flights were cancelled and rescheduled for morning we got our sleeping bags and pads out one last time and put them back in our tents.  I slept well, but woke up the next morning with a bad case of diarrhea from all the junk food!  Fortunately, some wonderful person left lavender-scented baby wipes in the poop tent and a small disaster was averted!

The flight to Kathmandu was breathtaking!  We stopped in both Pheriche and Lukla to refuel, and found spring had arrived.  It smelled wonderful!  The beauty was indescribable, and I had mixed emotions about seeing it for the last time!

Bart made it safely to Camp 2. As expected he is exhausted!!  After a few hours rest he will depart for base camp. The next update will be from him.

Bart: There was a tricky spot at the bottom of the Hillary Step, which, by the way, I renamed the Hillary Stairs, because of the large amount of snow that had covered the rocks making for an easy ascent and descent.  Anyway, there was a section at the bottom that required my full attention.  From there it was pretty straight forward getting back to the South Summit.  As I approached the South Summit I walked over a bunch of small rocks that reminded me I wanted to collect a few to take home.  Pk scooped a dozen or so and I stuffed them in my pocket.  From there down I began to feel extreme exhaustion and asked for Pk’s help setting up my rappel a few times in key places.

We arrived back at the Balcony around 8:30 or 9:00 am and rested and ate again.  I finally felt a strong urge to pee and tried to suppress it but finally gave in.  It took a monumental effort to get through all the clothing to make it happen.  It was nice to see everything in the light of day from there, and I pondered Beck Weathers spending the day waiting for Rob Hall.  The two other deceased Indians were thought to be near the Balcony, but I didn’t see them.  The tents at the South Col were in sight, but appeared very small.  It took over an hour to descend, and we once again had to step over the dead Indian.  I also looked at the South Col carefully as I got closer and closer and tried to visualize where Yasuko Namba had perished and wondered if her body was still there somewhere.  It’s a large area several hundred yards long and wide, littered with boulders, so it was hard to tell.

Once at Camp 4, I rested for an hour, called Judy, then continued the descent to Camp 3.  I had wanted to rest longer, but we were the last team on the mountain and IMG was already in the process of dismantling camp.  I had hoped to rest at Camp 3, but it had already been taken down as well.  We stopped at lower Camp 3, and had a snack before continuing on down.  I was so exhausted I continued to have Pk set up important rappels.  Mostly though, it was forward facing hand rappels Pk couldn’t help me with and I had to just grin and bear it!

When I got to the bottom of the Lhotse face I thought to call Judy, but I was too tired. Besides, it was 3:30 am in Utah and she would be sleeping.  I decided I would call her closer to 6:00 after I had dinner at Camp 2.  Bad idea!  When I finally called her she was almost inconsolable! She had awakened alarmed since she hadn’t heard from me.  She had asked me to call her when I got off the face since that area of the mountain was one of her biggest worries.  The 6:00 am news she woke to was reporting climbers had died descending that day.  I felt horrible!  I knew I had made a big mistake and apologized profusely.  She soon settled down, happy I was alive!

He did it!!  He summited, took photos, then called on the sat phone at 5:40 pm, mountain time.  He was very hard to understand – he obviously had his oxygen on. He repeated, “I’m here, I’m here – Top of the World.”   I asked if he was ok and he said, “Yes, I’m ok, I love you, I need to get down safe, I love you all,” and that was it.  Now I will worry for his safe return to Camp 4.  I haven’t worried at all up until now.  I’ll feel much better the next time I hear his voice.  Thank you to all who have been such a support.

Bart: It had snowed lightly all day, and I was met with about five inches of snow as I got out of the tent to leave for the summit.  It was 8:00 pm and Enrico, Craig, and I were ready, but John was sitting down in the snow trying to figure out what was wrong with his oxygen tank.  It took him and Dawa about 30 minutes to get it figured out.  I was so excited to get started it tried my patience.

After we climbed up the first slope out of camp, the fixed line disappeared under the snow, and Pk and the other Sherpa spent what seemed like forever trying to find it.  After a while I worried I was using too much oxygen standing there waiting, so I turned to John to check my gauge.  I was surprised to find it wasn’t John, but Craig.  Apparently, John had turned back saying it wasn’t his day.  I was dumbfounded!  John had been so strong!  I had Craig check my gauge and I was at 2.5 liters/min.  I was relieved thinking I had been at 4.  I had him turn it down to 2, but within minutes the Sherpa found the line and we were off again.  I didn’t go too far before I had him turn it back up as I was already feeling the effects of being in the so-called “Death Zone” above 26,000 feet.

We continued up a very steep slope for the next three hours to the Balcony.  About half way up I encountered another body.  It was hard to tell whether this was one of the older ones or not, but I later found out it was one of the Indians.  He and two others had perished somewhere in the vicinity within the last 48 hours.  He seemed to be snagged in the rope right on the trail and I had to carefully step over him.  I told him I was sorry and continued on.

Suddenly I realized I couldn’t feel the toes on my right foot.  Standing around for a half hour or so probably contributed to it, but I immediately started wiggling the toes on both feet with every step.  I decided I’d try to get them warm this way for another hour or so and resort to the Hotronics later if needed.  I had purposely thought to use them only in an emergency since my feet had been warm to this point. I was also having a hard time keeping the ambient air intake valve clear of ice on my mask and had to have Pk scrape it out every half hour or so.

We finally got to the Balcony where we were met with a stiff west wind.  Pk changed my oxygen tank, I took a drink and had a few shot blocks and we were off to the South Summit. I finally forced myself to find the Hotronics battery buried deep in my pocket and turned it on, since my toes were still very cold.  But, I also continued to wiggle my toes with every step.  I was dtermined not to lose them!   I also kept stopping Pk to clear my mask.  We encountered two more cliffs requiring effort like the Yellow Band, but were soon at the South Summit.  Pk changed my oxygen tank again right at the spot Rob Hall died.  I felt hypoxic for the minute or so I was disconnected from the air supply and hoped I wouldn’t pass out.  It was then I noticed the far eastern horizon beginning to lighten up.  I gazed up at the beautiful cornices between me and the summit and realized I was going to make it!

At  12:30 this morning I got that ever so important call, and I heard my favorite voice say “I’m here, it was so hard but I feel really good!” I asked if he was freezing and he replied, “not right now, I’m still warm from the climb.”  He had just blown up his air mattress and was waiting for his sleeping bag, which one of the Sherpa had carried. They will get a few hours of rest and will be departing this morning at 8:30 for the climax of this long journey.  Remember, since they are about 12 hours ahead of us, he will be climbing through the night.  From what I’ve read it usually takes 8-11 hours to the summit.  Stay tuned…

Bart: I slept very well in the tent at Camp 3, alone and with the help of a good meal and an Ambien.  I knew a good night’s sleep would be essential to moving higher.  My energy level had improved some, and I was excited to think I’d soon be seeing first hand the Yellow Band, Geneva Spur, and Camp 4 at the South Col, all places I’d read about.  The Yellow Band (25,000 feet) zapped what little energy I had. Rock climbing is required and proved to be more a challenge than I’d imagined.  Pk seemed to be getting increasingly impatient with my slow pace, and at one point, approaching the Geneva Spur, he tried pulling me to increase my pace.  I was moving about the same as other climbers and felt silly, but knew it wouldn’t last long.  He gave up on that idea after a couple of minutes.

PK soon stopped me again, this time to prepare me for what was ahead.  He told me not to be scared because there was a body up ahead on the Geneva Spur.  Sure enough, we passed a recently deceased woman in a suit just like mine.  I had expected to see some of the 200 bodies reportedly up there, but was surprised to see one so recently passed.  A large group of Indian climbers on their way down passed shortly after and we had to clip into an old rope above to get out of their way.

A steep pitch, the crux of the Spur, took us up to the South Col.  I was wasted again, but excited to see the Col and the trail up to the Balcony.  We arrived around noon and I was assigned a tent with the Italian, Enrico.  We spent the next eight hours eating, drinking, and resting, and I became increasingly excited about our fast-approaching summit attempt.  Enrico and I got along well sharing snacks.  Pk brought my MRE dinners around 4:00 pm.  Scalloped potatoes for one and meatballs for the other really hit the spot!  I put my “game face” on and got ready.  I became super excited to finally be doing it, and the fatigue vanished.

 

Bart arrived at Camp 3.  He sounded good, although he has a little sore throat and, of course, was exhausted.  They started hearing reports from their Hybrid and Classic 2 groups of those who had summited.  I was excited to hear that Mike and Emily, two of our guides from last year, had made it.  I am so happy for them!  Some in the group were turned around at the South Summit, because they didn’t have enough oxygen left to get them to the top.  The reason for this is usually because they were too slow.  My heart goes out to them.  IMG provides the climbers with the amount of oxygen that should get them to the summit.  If you want to have an extra tank it will cost you $6,000.  The tanks weigh about 16 pounds each. The Sherpa have to haul all of these tanks for all of the climbers up to Camp 3, so you can imagine what an effort it takes.  Bart did purchase an extra tank as a safeguard.  I won’t hear from Bart again until he arrives at the South Col (Camp 4), which will be at about midnight (our time).

Bart: Though I had very little energy leaving Camp 2, I knew if I would will myself the hour and a half to the base of the Lhotse face, I would find a way to get to Camp 3.  Once there it was “game on” again, and I made my way slowly but steadily upwards with a renewed excitement for the summit push.  However, I arrived at camp totally exhausted and was so light-headed I was on the verge of passing out.  I was soon in my tent and on oxygen and began to feel much better, especially after eating something.  Johnny made sure I had a tent to myself, setting me up for the summit attempt, which I really appreciated.  He was feeling poorly himself, but wanted to make it up to me after our prior experience there.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I just hung up from talking to Bart.  He sounds good.  His day will be spent getting ready for his departure time of 5:00 tonight.  He wished me Happy Anniversary; we’ve been married 39 years.  It’s a good day to begin his second attempt. The weather looks good, winds are supposed to be light, but it will be minus-40 degrees at the peak.  He told me that it was a good thing that they retreated to Camp 2, because those that were able to weather the storm and continued to the summit ended up in a back-up at the South Summit and many returned with frostbite. They are one of the last teams to be starting up today so they shouldn’t experience any back-ups.  He appreciates all of the prayers and positive energy that is being sent his way.   GO BART!!!

Bart sounded great when I talked to him last night.  His attitude had completely changed.  He is eager to “get it done,” he said.  They will be leaving early Saturday morning.  Bart has always accomplished every goal he has set, so I knew he wouldn’t walk away from this one without a fight.  Their projected summit date is the 23rd.        

Our friend, Will Calton, dropped by yesterday with some words of encouragement he wanted me to pass along to Bart.  Will and another friend, Tom Burton, were making their summit attempt in 2012.  As you might recall that was the year when there were approximately 500 climbers trying to summit on the same weekend.  There was a long back up of climbers just below the top (the Hillary Step).  This is not a place you want to be hanging out for any length of time.  Tom and Will waited for two hours before they could put a foot on the summit.  They know what kind of mental and  physical endurance it takes to get yourself to the top.  

 

As I talked to Bart last night, he told me, “it is a beautiful day.”  He is watching the steady stream of climbers approaching the summit.  He questions, a little, the decision to retreat.  He’s feeling physically, mentally, and emotionally depleted. They can give it another try in a couple of days if they choose to.  Right now he is on the fence. The general feeling among his group is that they will go. I know he will as well, for if he doesn’t it will eat away at him and he’ll wish he had.  He knows he will have to dig deep from within, hoping there are untapped sources of energy.  I am happy that he has a couple of days for introspection.  I told him of everyone who is cheering him on and sending their positive energy.  He very much appreciates it, as do I.   

Bart: I’d spent a sleepless night on oxygen at Camp 3 in a tent with both Johnny and Marin.  The next morning, after an exhausting effort in tight quarters preparing to leave for Camp 4, we were put on hold due to high winds.  We would be leaving for the summit at 8:00 pm that night if we could get there.  Despite being tired from the push to Camp 3 the day before, and the restless night, we were all super excited!  However, as the winds continued and the day wore on, it became apparent we’d have to wait at least another day.  My excitement was replaced with concern and then disappointment when it appeared I’d be spending another night at Camp 3.  When it started snowing later that evening the decision was made to return to Camp 2!  I wasn’t exactly sure why, but was downright depressed about it.

It was a long two hours getting back to Camp 2, and by the time I arrived I was soaked with sweat having been dressed in my summit suit, with four layers underneath, prepared for the cold temperatures up high.  Super guide, Mike Hamill, offered me his summit suit to sleep in.  What a guy!  I think it saved me from getting really sick.

I had another sleepless night but stayed warm with the suit.  I was also disappointed to look up the next morning and see the line of climbers on their way to Camp 4.  Apparently, we were the only team that had descended.  I ate and drank as much as possible that day to keep my energy up, but nearly passed out after talking to Judy on the sat phone.

The other team would be leaving the next day, and we were now scheduled to follow them two days later.  Though I was feeling poorly with a cough, head cold, and very low energy in the rarefied air, I was encouraged I’d have a couple of days to get ready.  I also knew, as Judy mentioned above, I’d have to find that untapped source of energy, because it was looking more and more improbable, if not impossible, to get myself to the summit and back down safely.