I spent the day getting ready for the 2nd rotation, this time to Camp 3. IMG’s camp on the Lhotse face sits at about 24,000 feet.
I’ll be leaving at 3:30 am, which is about nine hours from now. This will be the last time I’ll be updating the blog for about five days. I’ll call updates into Judy.
I’ll miss this beautiful camp, but I’m really looking forward to getting to Camp 3 where I’ll get a great view of the upper reaches of Everest. From here it’s not visible behind the West Buttress.
The hardest part so far is the waiting game between rotations. Most of us have adequately recovered from the first rotation and are itching to get on with the second.
The first team got delayed a day when a set of vertical ladders in the Icefall were damaged. The Icefall doctors had to reroute the fixed line forcing Team 1 to return to EBC.
So, it looks like I’ll get two more days of rest and start my second rotation on May 2nd.
A common plague amongst all of us is some form of the Khumbu cough. Upon high exertion at altitude it’s easy for the the sensitive lining of the lungs to become agitated. I keep a buff over my mouth at all times, but occasionally remove it temporarily for extra oxygen. My Sherpa is always quick to remind me to get it back on.
One of the doctors here told me that for every year over age 40 I lose 1% of my VO2 max, Continue reading Waiting…
Although there are a select few who have the VO2 max and may also be genetically inclined to climb into the death zone without
oxygen, I’m not one of them. In fact, it is so dangerous to do so that even the Sherpa involved with my expedition are under strict guidelines not to go without it.
Today, we received our oxygen masks and thoroughly tested and trained on how to use them properly. It will still be a few weeks, however, before we actually use them.
First, we will complete our second rotation up to Camp 3, sleep there without oxygen, then return to EBC for more rest. On our third and final summit rotation, we will sleep on oxygen at Camp 3, then stay on it continuously to the summit, and then all the way back down to Camp 2. I won’t actually need it below Camp 3, but it helps the Sherpa to bring the tanks down.
I and my teammates spent yesterday in recovery mode. Eating, hydrating, and sleeping as much as possible.
The first rotation took its toll on many of us in terms of headaches, stomach issues, and exhaustion. One got so congested he didn’t eat the entire time and looks like he’s down 10 pounds.
Fortunately for me, other than a little HAFE (high altitude flatulence edema), yes, a real thing most of us get, and mildly fatigued quads, I feel strong today and look forward to our oxygen clinic.
The primary issue I’m having right now is my base camp sleeping pad. The highly touted Exped is separating at the seams and allowing for big bulges making it hard to stay on the thing. IMG provides a non-inflating pad in all tents, so all is not lost. I still managed to get a good night’s sleep.
Just returned from my first rotation up to Camp 1 and 2. It was quite windy most of the time, but otherwise beautiful. I’ll post more pictures on Instagram.
The view of the Lhotse face from Camp 2 is spectacular. I watched 10 Sherpa place the fixed rope up to Camp 3 all day yesterday.
It was interesting to reflect on the events of exactly one year ago as the earthquake occurred. After the relief of being alive, I remember being upset I most likely wouldn’t be continuing on to Camp 2, and yet here I was experiencing the unbelievable beauty of the place once again. I soaked it in and thought how very lucky I am to be here!
I also feel fortunate to be relatively healthy, as many of my team have been plagued with various issues related to high altitude.
It took under four hours to descend the four thousand feet back to EBC. On the way up it had taken me five hours to get to Camp 1, and another three plus to get to Camp 2. Sad to give all that up, but it’s all a critical part of the acclimatization process so as not to get the life-threatening edemas, HAPE and HACE.
I’m happy to report that Bart’s trek to Camp 2 went well; it took about three and a half hours. He felt good. It’s still very windy but that should change within the next 12 hours.
They are at the top of the Western Cwm looking up the Lhotse face. Today the sherpa will begin putting in the route up the face. As Bart is telling me this, his excitement is that of a kid experiencing his first Christmas. He cannot believe that he is finally there, seeing all these places that he has read about for so many years.
Bart reports: The day began with a wake up time of 1:30 am, breakfast at 2:00 am, and departure at 3:00 am. The route through the Icefall this year was steeper and was more difficult than last year.
To his surprise, when he got to Camp 1 at 8:00 am his time was exactly the same as last year, five hours. The views are breathtaking! He’s so excited to be there. They will spending two nights there before moving up to Camp 2.
Well, now it gets serious. Our Puja was performed this morning and we’re ready to start our first rotation above EBC.
The Puja was shorter than last year, thankfully. It often goes on for half the day or more. The Sherpa had some other responsibilities this afternoon. I’d love to know exactly what they’re chanting, but it boils down to safe passage on the mountain.
We’ll start at 2 am in the morning and make the five-eight hour climb to Camp 1 at just under 20,000 feet. After spending two nights there we’ll continue to Camp 2, just under 22,000. After two-three nights there we’ll come back to EBC to rest up for the second rotation up to Camp 3.
I’ll be calling my wife, Judy, on the satellite phone to check in and report significant events which she will update on the blog.
A fun morning in the Icefall. We went halfway up just to orient ourselves with the route. The lower half is much more challenging than last year. Towards the end of the week we’ll go all the way up to Camp 1, and then Camp 2. Can’t wait!
Phunuru Sherpa set up a great ladder training course on the edge of camp. It’s odd but I enjoy the challenge of crossing these ladders with my big boots and crampons.
The route this year through the Icefall has a different look to it. It’s usually the upper half that’s harder, but not so this year. The lower half has not only more ladders, but is more challenging. I’ll see it for myself tomorrow, but we’ve been told there’s a four-ladder crevasse span and a five-ladder vertical wall.
The weather pattern has been mostly predictable with beautiful clear skies in the morning and scattered snow showers in the afternoon and evening. However, a bigger storm is forecast for tomorrow, so Team One’s departure for Camp One may be impacted, as well as our test run up to the football field, or halfway point.
Mt. Everest 