Lobuche Base Camp

We left Pheriche early this morning on our way to Lobuche Base Camp, which is an additional thousand or so feet higher.  This base camp is only used by IMG.

IMG prefers using their own base camp because the village of Lobuche is, notably, a place where some have become sick in the past.  Generally, tea houses are clean and the food is pretty good, with a variety to choose from.   IMG chooses to start using their own cooks and to start tenting at this point to try to avoid any health-related problems as climbers get closer to EBC, where good health and abundant energy become so important.  It was just this morning, as we started our trek from Pheriche to Lobuche Base Camp that Judy had that unpleasant rumbling in the bottom of her abdomen telling her something was wrong!  Her Imodium was in her duffel and already tied to the back of a yak, but fortunately one of the IMG guides, Emily Johnston, who is an ER doctor, was able to help since she had some with her.  We stopped within another half hour or so for a little bit more which seemed to do the trick, and Jude didn’t have another problem after that.  The unexpected Imodium breaks did put us a little behind so we had to do a little catch up to reach the rest of the group.  I think this extra effort caused us to become a little winded, somewhat out of breath, and low on energy.  We ate an energy bar and mixed some Nuun tablets with our water to help with our hydration and to replenish our electrolytes, and in no time we were feeling energetic again.  From this point we slowed our pace a bit and before we knew it, we had caught up with the rest of our group and actually were one of the first ones into camp.

Judy was apprehensive about staying in tents, but we were pleasantly surprised to find the tents large enough to be quite comfortable.  In fact, they are easier to keep warm once body heat or the sun warms them up.  This would be practically impossible in a tea house room.  The dining tent is large and comfortable, as well. It’s double walled and also gets warm quickly with 20 or so people.  Camp is usually situated in a beautiful meadow, but with the snow it has a different feel.  It is, however, beautiful!  We plan to acclimatize here for three days before we continue on to EBC.

Judy hiking down from Lobuche high camp with base camp visible below.
Judy hiking down from Lobuche high camp with base camp visible below.

Rest and Acclimatization

Pheriche 3

This morning we’re off to Lobuche at 16,200. That’s where tent camping starts and Judy is so excited!  No, not really.

Yesterday was a rest and acclimatization day. We had a fun hike up to about 15,000 feet. Three years ago Judy wasn’t really interested in doing this, so I went up as high as possible with Tom Calton. This time around we didn’t go as high, as the guides are taking care that we not stress our bodies at these higher altitudes too quickly.  I enjoyed having Jude with me, and we had fun mingling with the other trekkers and climbers and taking pictures.

There will be no wi-fi at the Lobuche camp, so I will likely be updating the blog by satellite phone. We’ll be spending three nights there to continue our acclimatization before continuing on to EBC!

Periche 2Pheriche 1

Blessings from Lama Geshe

Pangboche Blessing

We left beautiful Tengboche today on our way to Pherishe, about seven miles farther up the valley, and we gained another 1500 feet.

The first stop along the way is Pangboche where the Lama Geshe resides; he offers a blessing of safe passage on the mountain to any climber or trekker who desires one.  A small tip is much appreciated.  It brought back memories of watching Tom Burton and Will Calton receive it when we were with them three years ago. I was jealous, wishing I was also receiving the blessing of safe passage high on Mt. Everest. My wish came true as I received the same blessing today.  It was a very nice event and we all liked the old Lama who is witty and fun and reminded me a little of the Dali Lama.  This was actually the second of three blessings.  The first was a special one I received from my father, and the third will be the Puja ceremony at Everest Base Camp before we start the climb up through the Icefall.

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By the way, I’m posting lots of pictures on Instagram under bartw55, and Alan at alanarnette.com has posted a picture of the new route through the Icefall.  Also, IMG at their website, mountainguides.com, has posted several pictures of our group, including Judy and me.

From Pangboche we quickly entered a moon-like landscape, leaving behind the beauty of spring in the lower Khumbu. The winds picked up and the temperature dropped and I realized things start getting a bit more serious now.  We’re in Pherishe at nearly 14,000 feet.  We’ll have a rest day here but will do an acclimatization hike tomorrow where we will have beautiful views of Ama Dablam.

Namche to Tengboche

This ten-mile section between Namche and Tengboche is one of my favorites. I soaked in every step as we hiked high above the deep Khumbu gorge and passed two of my favorite peaks, Thamserku and Kantega.

Thamserku and Kantega.
Thamserku and Kantega.

We encountered yak caravans around almost every corner, and at one point almost witnessed disaster as one came ever so close to being knocked off by another unruly yak.

As we finally arrived in Tengboche, we were greeted with the most amazing sight of Everest I’ve seen yet!  We checked into our lodge just yards from the famous monastery.  Our room faces Everest and we have the same view out our window.  It’s easily the best view from any hotel window I’ve ever had!  Thank goodness we have a rest day here to take advantage. I keep pinching myself to see if it’s real!

A third of our group are sick with stomach ailments, but Judy and I have been lucky so far.  Our only mishap was just now when I dropped my Steripin (an ultraviolet wand for treating water), and will now have to use the inferior potable water tablets.

On our first day of the trek I befriended a Slovakian on the trail by the name of Boris.  He intrigued me because he looked like the subway ghost in the movie “Ghost” – Vincent Schiavelli.  He’s a scary look’n guy!  He made a promise with his teammates that they’d all stick together no matter what. Well, his team leader from Mongolia and friend from Montenagro andimage four others all got sick and flew by helicopter back to Kathmandu.  He’s healthy, but true to his word flew out from Tengboche today – with much regret. He says next time he’s coming alone!

Today is Sunday, and we started the day by attending a traditional Buddhist ceremony at the Tengboche monastery. The room is not heated and my toes got cold and my back ached as I sat Indian style on the cold floor listening to the endless monotonous chanting.  For the first few minutes they have a certain enchantment to them.  Before long, however, they’re like listening to a boring sermon.  We spent some time after lunch sitting on the outdoor deck enjoying the sunshine before two Sherpa took Judy, Fred (an expat living in Hong Kong), and me on a short hike up the mountain behind our hotel.  It was beautiful, but a bit windy and cold; we were happy to get back and spend some time in the windless courtyard outside of the bakery, enjoying a delicious slice of chocolate cake!

Tonight we’ll pack up again to be ready to continue on in the morning.  We’ll be going to Pheriche, with a stop in Pangboche to see Lama Geshi.

Namche Bazaar

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Namche Bazaar 11,300

Thanks to guide, Mike Hamill, we’re staying in the David Breashears Room.  David is a famous mountaineer and filmmaker.  Unlike the average room, it has its own bathroom and shower!

We did an acclimatization hike 1,300 feet above Namche Bazaar to the Everest View Hotel.  It’s a high-class hotel with spectacular views of this section of the Himalaya, including the first distant view of Everest.  From here it appears as one of the smallest peaks on the horizon since it is still so far away. It is the one just left of center with a roundish cloud just to the right of it.  The beautiful pointy peak on the right is Ama Dablam.  I love the view from here – it’s breathtaking!  It is one of those for which a picture could never do it justice.

It’s quite a steep climb and descent, but once again Judy’s knees held up surprisingly well! This was a nice test.  We are now enjoying things even more without the knee worry.  The Khumbu is truly a dreamy place and a life changer to many. We have potentially two more days here.  If everyone in our group is feeling up to it, we may leave earlier because we’re still behind our intended schedule.  In the meantime, I’m savoring the feeling of being in one of Earth’s most grand and beautiful places!

Sitting on the deck of the Everest View Hotel
Sitting on the deck of the Everest View Hotel

NO APRIL FOOL’S

Lukla Runway

We finally caught a break in the weather!  The third time was a charm, and at last we escaped Kathmandu!

Yesterday, we came so close to getting out!  We actually had our boarding passes in hand, but all flights were cancelled once again due to windy weather conditions at Lukla.  We were all so disappointed!  Our hopes had been high because the weather in Kathmandu had been beautiful all day.  Over a three-day period we spent nearly 15 hours in the dark and depressing Kathmandu airport before finally taking flight and heading to Lukla this morning.  This three-day setback to our schedule won’t necessarily affect the climbers, but may affect the trekkers. They could be shorted a day or two at EBC (Everest Base Camp).

Lukla Landing

It was a glorious flight to Lukla, making the delay seem worth the wait.  Clouds developed as we approached the Himalayas, but, luckily, it remained clear enough for our pilot to make a perfect landing on the steep mountain runway.  Even though we were all somewhat apprehensive about the flight, especially Caroline and Kara (a Delta Airlines pilot), the entire plane erupted in cheers as we landed safely! After leaving the plane we made our way to a nearby tea house to wait for our duffel bags.  A bakery is part of the lodge, and Judy and I shared a delicious piece of chocolate cake.  We met five of our climbing Sherpa, then started our trek to Phakding.  Interestingly, we hiked down to begin with.  Phakding is about 600 feet lower than Lukla in elevation.

We both kept our fingers crossed and, thankfully, Judy had no knee issues, not even a twinge of pain.  What a great relief!  Judy is ecstatic!  We’ll be staying tonight at the Sunrise Tea House.  It is very close to where we stayed before and is quaint and cozy.  We both like it better, because it’s warmer!

Hang’n at the Airport

Judy at the Kathmandu airport

Shades of trying to get out of Lukla three years ago!  This time, weather prevented us from getting in.  So, we got lots of third world airport time.

After several hours of waiting, we ventured outside on the second level for some fresh air.  To our surprise there were several monkeys hang’n out there also. We were initially intrigued but soon forgot about them. We were engaged in a conversation when suddenly a monkey rushed Judy and stole some crackers she had clutched to her chest.  It quite alarmed us, but fortunately no scratches or bites.

That was the high point of the day, as the weather was unrelenting; we were forced to abandon the effort to fly into Lukla and find a hotel for the night.  Hopefully we’ll have better luck tomorrow, but so far it doesn’t look too promising.  Needless to say, I’m itchy to get started but still in good spirits and exercising patience.

Boudhanath

Stupa

Boudhanath is the largest, most impressive stupa in Nepal.  Nepalese Buddhists believe the winds blow the prayers on the prayer flags to heaven.

We spent an hour here today, after the team meeting, contemplating our own hopes and prayers.  Most of these for our loved ones at home and for safety on our flight and trek to Mt. Everest.

Jude and I made our final preparations to begin the trek tomorrow.  We’re looking forward to our early morning flight to Lukla, one of the most dangerous airports in the world.  It’s a thrill I look forward to with great anticipation!  I will be unable to use wi-fi or satellite phone for the next two or three days, so remember no news is good news.  Also, IMG updates their website on the internet frequently at mountainguides.com.

Boudhanath

Kathmandu

Hotel Tibet

After arriving safely in Kathmandu, we had an acceptable night’s sleep.  Greg Vernovage, the expedition leader, instructed us to take some Melatonin as we went to bed last night to speed our body clock and sink with the 12-hour time difference.  We are now a half day ahead of Utah.

Greg spent about two hours with us this morning doing gear checks.  We passed!  Our trekking duffels average 32 pounds while the my climber’s duffel, going directly to Base Camp, weighs about 50 pounds. We are staying three nights here at the Hotel Tibet before flying to Lukla to start the trek.

I’ve met eight of the 12 climbers in my group so far.  They all seem nice, but our favorites are an energetic Canadian married couple, who are both medical doctors. Caroline is a OBGYN and Jason is a Naturopath specializing in sports medicine in Calgary where many Olympic athletes train.  They both hope to summit together.  To my knowledge there has been only one other married couple do this.

We spent part of the day walking around the tourist district of Thamel, an interesting area full of small shops.  The majority seem to cater to the mountaineering crowd, whether trekkers or climbers.

Duffels
Duffels on their way to the airport.

There is another IMG group of climbers that arrived a day before us and will continue to be a day ahead of us.  They are the Hybrid group.  They share a guide between four climbers. My group, the more experienced Classic group, will use mostly Sherpa support.  The Hybrid group were denied a flight to Lukla yesterday due to weather, but were able to fly up today by helicopter. The weather looks better for the next few days, so hopefully we’ll stay on schedule to fly up Sunday and start the trek.