Everest 2016

As the title suggests, the 50-50 chance of returning to Everest that I spoke of in my 2015 epilogue, turns out to be a yes! There were two conditions that had to be met before I would make the important decision. First, I had to receive the trip insurance money back, and second, I needed Judy’s unsolicited support for a second attempt. Lucky for me, I got both.

Travelex was quick to return 90% of the expedition expenses (thankfully, I chose to insure my entire trip), including the helicopter rescue from Camp 1, and special delivery four weeks later of my climbing equipment left behind at base camp. Only the cost of the Lobuche acclimatization training summit and round trip airfare were excluded.

I waited for Judy to approach me about my desires to return before I expressed them to her. One day, out of the blue, she broached the subject. Basically, under the unusual circumstances of the earthquake, she granted her unwavering support for a second attempt should I still have it in my heart to do so. After personally witnessing the degree of experience, expertise, and care IMG exhibited before, during, and after the earthquake, she was convinced I was in good hands, and that IMG’s top priority is my safety. Not oblivious to mountaineering’s inherent risks, she nonetheless magnanimously gave me full thumbs up!

I made the decision to return at the end of July 2015, just in time to take advantage of a $1500 early decision discount IMG offers, and began training all over again. Though I had a good base to build on, I started slowly after injuring my foot the month before.

Today is Martin Luther King Day and I have the day off. My training is progressing well. I’m once again almost at that 60-day mark before I depart. That’s the magical day Alan Arnette referred to in my 2015 blog, “Preface.”

I’ve tweaked a few things in my training this time around, and plan to approach the climb itself mostly with “conservation of energy” in mind. I was a bit too eager and impatient, and plan to be more measured this time around. On rest days, I will rest. I will not hike to Pumori High Camp on my rest day. I will stop, rest, eat and hydrate more often.

This past Wednesday I had a fun experience with my nephew, Jon Cracroft, and his friend, Steve Sadler. We toured up Mill D (Big Cottonwood Canyon) to the top of Reynolds Peak (featured photo by Jon), and skied a bit of powder. Saturday, I skinned and skied Snowbasin from 4-9am for a total of 6,300 vertical with a 30-pound pack. My goal is to work up to roughly twice that amount to simulate summit day. Though only 3,000 feet from Camp 4 to the summit, it can take the better part of a 24-hour day to make the round trip and back to the relative safety of Camp 2.

At 61, I’m fortunate to feel strong and healthy at the moment – knock on wood! Last year, it was about now that I started sleeping in an oxygen tent. I had felt strong then too, but thought the tent gradually made me weaker and later didn’t seem to contribute to any enhanced advantage on the mountain. It became a matter of some debate between me and a fellow climber, who had also utilized an oxygen tent beforehand. He thought it helped him. I felt little difference at base camp when compared to my 2012 trek, when I hadn’t used it. I had felt at least as strong then, if not stronger. I was also three years younger, so it’s hard to say for sure. IMG’s expedition leader, Greg Vernovage, has also observed no noticeable difference. It’s all a matter of a slow methodical acclimatization period. Hence, two full months on the mountain. At any rate, life will be much simpler for the next two months without it.

I will do my best, once again, to keep this blog updated as often as possible once the expedition begins. I leave March 26th. Thanks in advance for your interest, and or concern, on my behalf.

Bart